Friday 23 January 2015

Cedar Keys Florida - Clam Central

Our next stop after Mexico beach was a little fishing town called Cedar Keys.  Our good friends John and Eileen had also recommended this location and as the clam producing capital of the USA we figured that we would be able to sample a decent clam chowder which has become one of our favourite foods.

As we booked in to the Cedar Key RV Resort we looked through the tourist information brochures that lined the walls in the reception area. Two things caught our attention, the first being a "joyflight" around the Keys for a mere $25 per person for a 20 minute flight - no bookings necessary, just turn up at the Cedar Keys airport.  We were amazed that a small fishing villiage with a population of 700 people even had an airport. It sits out on one of the Keys and,as we were told later, it is the shortest public airfield in the USA. The second thing that we were keen to do was a 2 hour boat cruise around the Keys.  At $26 we also considered that a bargin. 

Despite it being quite windy we headed out to the airport the next day to see if we could do a joyflight.  There were a couple of people waiting at the fence for the plane to return so we had a wait of about half an hour - just long enough for Rose to build up the courage to get onboard such a little aircraft.  I  had never flown in such a small plane either so I was pretty excited at the prospect.  

In addition to us and the other couple waiting for our plane to return there was another group of people standing on the tarmac - they had just flown in on their private plane from Jacksonville .  Even when our plane landed and began taxiing back to the apron one of the ladies aimlessly wandered across the tarmac with her head in her phone, totally oblivious to danger she was in.  Something must have clicked because she suddenly looked up, realised she was in the way, and then in no particular hurry wandered away all without drawing breath or interrupting her telephone conversation!  Rose and I just looked at each other, shaking our heads!! 

Our plane arrives


While we were waiting for our turn we noticed a couple of fuel cans near the fence - yep this is the fuel for our plane -  no fuel truck here. 

Fuel it up Rose

Finally it was our turn, after a quick discussion, I took the front seat and Rose (photographer extraordinaire) the back. 

My knowledge of aircraft is fairly limited  but I do know that most "Cessnas" tend to be of the older vintage -  this plane was built in 1950 however much to our relief the engine had been replaced last year.   Even with our earphones on it was very noisy which made hearing what our pilot Bill was saying a little difficult.   Bill pointed out the many clam farms which cover an area of over 700 acres.  Historically long line fishing was the major industry in Cedar Keys however when this method of catching fish was banned the fisherman, having to look for another way of making a living, began farming clams.

Twenty short minutes later we were safely back on terra firma but agreed that this was by far one of the best experiences we had had and an amazing way to see the area.   

Take off
Looking back to Cedar Keys
 
We had done the air, now it was time for the sea adventure.  We were initially booked on the morning tour however this was postponed due to the low tides, it was so low they couldn't get the boat out.

We boarded the boat and set off with a very detailed commentary from the captain.  It was still cool and we certainly needed a fleece to keep warm. We motored around the Keys past the old lighthouse and learned that Cedar Keys was, in days gone by, the end point for the railroad from the east coast. Historically railroads played a big part on whether a town flourised or disappeared. The township of Cedar Keys reloacted from one of the other Keys to its present site as that was where the railway line terminated.

We visited some of the Keys where the migratory birds were resting and feeding with the highlight being seeing an Osprey that had caught a rather large fish.  The boat was quickly turned around so we could take a photo.  Our informative captain told us that once the bird has caught a fish it will turn it around in its claws to reduce drag.

The old lighthouse - now used by the University for reseach

A simple rest stop for the birds

Note how the Osprey has turned the fish around 

We can see you Rose!
You have to build high here to avoid being flooded

Touring done it was time to eat!  We had heard about a local restaurant called Tonie's which was famous for their clam chowder -  they had won the New England clam chowder award for 3 years running.  Two Lunch  time specials were ordered - clam chowder in a cob loaf with a choice of shrimp, oysters or fish on the side.   Meals arrived -  now the taste test - was Tonie's clam chowder as good as they claimed?  Oh yeah - it was the best we had ever tasted - so good in fact we both ordered a second helping and bought a carton of his canned chowder to take home.   Our very friendly waitress explained that Tonie comes into the restaurant every day to add his secret mix of seasonings to the day's batch -  Tonie is the Colonel Sanders of clam chowder!

Cedar Keys is a hidden gem, quiet and relaxed and definitey on our list of favourite seaside locations.

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