Sunday 25 January 2015

Crystal River Florida - Manatee Country

Our next stop was only about an hours drive south of Cedar Keys to the town of Crystal River.  Crystal River is famous for the Manatees that migrate there each winter to enjoy the warm waters of the natural springs in this area.  Prior to visiting this area I had no real knowledge of Manatees but I was soon to find out what fascinating animals they are. 

We pulled into Rock Crusher RV park booked in and drove up to our site.  To start with we had a bit of difficulty actually seeing our spot as it was tucked in amoungst the trees - now this is camping!   A lot of RV parks are manicured to perfection - this one was the opposite, a llittle rustic, no concrete slabs,  but still with full hookup.   Once we were set up we switched on the TV in  the mancave to watch the Green Bay Packers play.   We were excited - finally the weather was getting warmer and we could sit outside.

Loved this spot

As we were staying at Crystal River for a week it was a perfect time for me to find a diesel mechanic to help me install my recently purchased Banks econochip. As luck would have it they had a business card for a local bloke in the reception area.  I called the number, and as it was 2.00pm on Sunday and mid way through the NFL game, I expected to speak to an answering machine.  Much to my surprise my call was answered and a time and date booked for the install the following week.  

Our next priority was to book a manatee tour - there are plenty of places to view them from a jetty or from a boat but we were feeling adventurous - we wanted to "swim" with them. Crystal River is the only place where you can actually swim with the manatees.  The Manatees are protected and there are very strict guidlines as to what you can and can't do when in the water with them.  There were 2 tours to choose from - one at 6.15 am and the other at 9.00 am.   Not that we are big fans of early mornings but we chose the 6.15 am time slot as we were told that the manatees are more active earlier in the morning.  Even though the weather was getting warmer it was still getting down to 6 degrees celcius overnight so it was going to be chilly getting into the water - thankfully wet suits were provided.  


Manatees are huge - they have a body mass of 400 to 550 kilograms (880 to 1,210 lb), and mean length of 2.8 to 3.0 metres (9.2 to 9.8 ft).  The females tend to be larger and heavier than the male and baby manatees weigh in at an average weight of 30 kilograms (66 lb)when born.   Their tails are paddle-shaped, and this is the clearest visible difference between manatees and dugongs; a dugong tail is fluked, similar in shape to a that of a whale. Manatees are generally solitary animals spending approximately 50% of the day sleeping submerged, surfacing for air regularly at intervals of less than 20 minutes. The remainder of the time is mostly spent grazing on grasses in shallow waters at depths of 1–2 metres (3.3–6.6 ft). The Florida species has been known to live up to 60 years.

So we set our alarm clock for the second time this trip and headed to the tour company down town.   We were shown a short video presentation and then fitted out with our wetsuits.  Diving among the manatees is not allowed -  you have to float using a pool noodle.   Manatees will move away from noise or splashing so staying still and quiet is essential if you want to get up close and personal with them. 

As nervous as I was, I was the first one in the water with my trusty pool noodle when the boat had anchored.  Within 30 seconds I saw this massive shadow approaching me and then, there I was, face to face with a huge manatee that actually kissed my mask.   My heart was beating so fast and hard it took all my effort to control my breathing and enjoy the moment  - I thought I would hyperventilate!  Manatees are very curious animals and have no natural predators - we were told that providing you don't go splashing about they will stay close.  At the time we didn't realise how many were swimming around us -  If I had known I might not have been quite so calm.  Rose had her own manatee experience with a mother and calf that hung close to the boat, with the mother 'kissing' her from her  shoulder down to her feet. 

 Every shadow is one of these majestic creatures




The tour time was 2 hours but after about 40 minutes the cold started to set in so I slowly (and quietly) started heading back to the boat. Just as I was about to get out a mother and her calf met me at the ladder, obviously wanting some attention.  As the mother rolled over I scratched her massive belly and before long the baby was lining up for a bit of the same.  My coldnesss forgotten I spent the next 15 minutes playing with these beautiful, peaceful creatures.  My manatee experience is one that I will never forget and would definitely recommend to  anyone coming to the area.



Something that did coincide with our visit to Crystal River was the Tampa RV show which is the largest RV show in Florida and was definitely something we didn't want to miss.  Tampa is about an hours drive south so in an effort to beat the crowds we set off early.  For those of you that remember the last time we went to an RV show in Dallas Texas we came home with a new fifth wheeler - ie our current trailer. We were certainly not looking for a new trailer this trip  but just wanted to tyre kick the new trailers and motorhomes to see 'what was new'.  Even with our early start it was a traffic jam to get into the Florida Fairgrounds as RVers from near and far  had also decided to come along to the show.  We had also arranged to catch up with some friends that we met during our last trip, the first being a wonderful lady called Beverley who we met at our very first Camping World store in Birmingham Alabama in 2012.   Beverley  and her husband are "ambassadors" for Camping world and travel the country full time. Beverly was manning the Camping World stand so we arranged to catch up. Beverly was pleased to see us again - this is what RVing is about, the ongoing friendships.  The second catchup was with Eileen and Jon who were the first couple we met on our last trip.  Jon and Eileen are full timers from Canada and spend 6 months of every year in the southern part of the  USA.  To be able to meet them here was a bonus. 

We spent hours walking and collecting phamplets and brochures.  The first motorhome we  saw as we entered the show was a Prevost.  These babies are at the top end of town selling for a cool $1.8 million USD.   So it was shoes off and a walk through, it even had brass fittings in the hookup area.  We continued around the show and soon realised we had become what I called "foot" snobs? Anything under 30 feet in length we just walked by. The only 5th wheeler that we were really interested in checking out was one of the latest Forest River Sandpiper which has a seperate second bedroom / media room. It truly is amazing how the designers can create such space in a small area.   Days end and with sore feet we headed back to our campsite, wallet intact, well done to us!

We had been told about a place called Rainbow River by our friends Chuck and Ceil and the beautiful clear waters which are fed by the warm water springs.  We walked around the national park and then paddled down the river in a hired canoe.  The water was so clear we could see all the way down to the river bed and watched the fish swimming beneath us.  We also spotted an otter diving along the river bank and turtles sunning themselves on the rocks.  The paddle down stream was easy as we literally just floating on the current - coming back was a little more strenuous but we allowed ourselves plenty of time of get the canoe back within the designated time frame.  Another recommendable experience!!

The otter that passed us by

Even found a snake on the walkway hanging in the trees

Some great small waterfalls in the park

The water was just beauful and clear

Prime riverfront properties

Paddle faster Ron!


At the advice of some of our fellow campers we visited the Homosassa Wildlife Refuge which was a short distance from our RV Park.  One of its main objectives is to educate people about manatees and the other wild life that lives in this area. One of the major programs they run is the rehabilitation of injured manatees. Apparently one third of all manatees deaths are boat realated.  The survival rate at birth is also quite low.  Once rehabilitated a manatee is fitted with a satellite tracking device and is monitored when it is  set free.  The tracking device does not hinder the animal at all and it wasn't unusual to see a couple of "floats" (tracking devices) bobbing in the water.

Once again the clarity of the water here was just beautiful as the area is fed by a number of underground springs.  The water remains at a constant 72F or 22c which is why the manatees migrate to the area in winter.   Although manatees are big unlike a whale,they have no blubber to keep them warm - any temperature under about 70 F is dangerous for these animals.  Power stations are another area that the manatees congregate to for a source of warmth as the stations pump out millions of gallons of warm water from the cooling towers.  When we left we decided to take the boat ride back to the entrance of the park - apparently it is not unusual to see alligators sunning themselves along the banks of the river as well as nesting eagles and wood ducks. 

Who?

The majestic Bald Eagle

The crystal clear water reflects on the boat trip back


Meeting and talking to people is one of the more enjoyable aspects of our travels.  We had the opportunity of catching up with Erv and Ruth Ann who we met in Two Rivers RV Park in Wisconsin on our last trip.  Erv and Ruth Ann took us out for a meal to a popular local eatery called Crackers.  The view was beautiful, the food fantastic and the company great.  Thank you Erv and Ruth Ann - we will return to enjoy your hospitality and travel advice next trip.  


Our neighbours at the Rock Crusher RV Park was a couple from Ontario, Canada - Bill and Glenda.  Bill and Glenda migrated from the Netherlands over 20 years ago and now that they are retired spend the winter months in Southern USA.   We invited them over for dinner to help us eat my special BBQ ribs cooked slowly in the weber.  Bill was suitably impressed and asked me to teach him how to cook them.  A quick trip to the grocery store to buy the ingredients a little instruction and dinner was done to perfection.  Not to be outdone Glenda prepared a special desert - vanilla icecream topped with balsamic vinegar!  Certainly a very different taste sensation! 


Bill and Glenda



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